Workshop

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Turning an MT3 tool holder.




MT2 & MT3 tool holders hot off the lathe, one in use in the mill.



Email: AV Young avytasmania@gmail.com



AV Young Workshop.


AV Young consistes of me, Tony Young and a couple of lathes and vertical mills.

The trick is of course to use all of this stuff and my drawings to make the componants exactly as drawn so everything works as planed.

The smaller lathe at the back is permanently set up to use collets and has had the cross slide modified for higher accuracy than it was capable of from the factory, this is the lathe I primarily use for making ferrules.


Here is the main lathe I use for everything else other than ferrules. The motor it came with was replaced by a 2hp one for more power. The aluminium held in the jaws is 3.5" dia.


The extra power comes in very handy when boring holes in bronze for reel seats such as this 18.5mm hole being drilled here.
The drill being used is an Allied Machinery drill, they cut fast if the machine can drive them and don't require reaming after drilling. The tips come in various types and are replaceable though they last a long time if you use them right, they're hollow which allows you to force coolant to the cutting edge in use so pushing them hard doesn't overheat the work piece.


Below are somes pics describing a few of the steps involved in making a set of ferrules as well as a prototype reel.



The material is first marked out for cutting to length. In this case it's a short section to become a male ferrule.




Above is a truncated female ferrule that has been machined to size and being checked.




Ferrule has been centre drilled and is now being drilled to depth to allow mounting on the rod. I use a dial gauge here, there is only about 1mm thickness between the two cavities of the female and the end of the male ferrules. This makes the ferrules as light as possible but takes good depth control. Can't rush this as a mistake just means a ruined ferrule. No soldering is performed in the making of AV Young ferrules, they are fully machined.




Finished profile of the ferrule. Note the use of collets, not a chuck. More accurate.

The furrule is cut to length, the material left becomes a male ferrule. The female is reversed in the collet and now the male slide cavity is drilled and reamed.




The male slide cavity of the female has been drilled to depth and is now being reamed with a chucking reamer. Another opperation that can't be rushed. Bronze does not dissipate heat well and reaming creates a lot of heat. This has to be done carefully and with close attention to flooding with coolant to prevent warpage which isn't shown for clarity. Again, a mistake here can't be fixed. Haste makes waste as they say.

Even though I use drill bits that actually drill a nearly perfectly round hole and are different to those used to drill the non slide holes I still ream to give the best finish possible for Cylindricity and Parallel of the hole.




Buffing is the last stage but prior to that the ferrules have their slits cut using an indexing jig I made for the purpose. The saw is a jewler's saw 0.008" thick.


Below are some pics showing the more interesting parts of reel making that I'm sorting out the productionising of.


The pics are of a 2-3/4" (70mm) traditional caged style reel.


Gear cutting. This pic shows a spline of 20 teeth being cut. When I tried this I found it was too coarse so now use 40 teeth, sounds and feels much smoother.



Turning the reel feet. These were actually made from the 20 tooth spline in the above pic that I decided against using.
The jig will do 4 at a time but I only did two at the time this pic was taken.
Turning between centres isn't very common these days but in some cases it's the best way to go. The 60 degree centre in the chuck was turned in place so it's concentric with the chuck. Once the 60 degree centre is removed it has to be turned in place to a fresh 60 degree point to stay accurate.
The alternative to do this is to replace the 3 jaw chuck with the 4 jaw, centre everything, do the job then replace the 4 jaw with the 3 again or mount the faceplate and use the soft centre directly in the headstock but this is much simpler if the 3 jaw chuck is already there and works perfectly well.



Bronze doesn't look too bad once it's been buffed.



The cage has been turned to finished diameter and the slots have been milled to the required depths using an indexing head. The reel foot screws have been drilled and tapped.


There is now a page showing the steps I took to make the reel shown here.

I'll expand the workshop page as I find the time but thanks for viewing it so far.